The inland villages of the Rio Verde are popularly appreciated as being those at the heart of the Tropical valley. From Almunecar, taking the A-4050 northwards, the Carretera Suspiro del Moro (or La Cabra, as the locals call it) presents in perfect order, literally hugging along the banks of this fertile valley: Jete, Otívar and Lentejí villages. The route has more recently become a popular tourist route as it snakes up the valley and over the mountains onwards to Granada city. Protected by the river Verde, that links the villages through kilometres of subtropical fruits and rich vegetation, the local communities here still continue to farm a rich variety of tropical fruits and plants that are exported the world over. For the sport lover too there is much to do - you can enjoy trekking, para-gliding, gorge climbing, walking and even caving here, the cave of the Perro, near the village of Lentejí (Lentegi) is more than 90 metres deep. Food connoisseurs too are also well provided for, with plenty of restaurant opportunities available to discover traditional local dishes based on meat and fish, and during the winter hunter's months, there is a rich variety of excellent game dishes to enjoy.

Our first stop is Jete, a settlement of Arab origin, founded around the XII century. The narrow streets echo this villages Moorish history and even in the dry heat of summer the gentle breezes of the mountains help to cool villagers as they did so many centuries ago. Jete is a popular staring point for walkers and hikers too, by following some of the more well marked and, in some parts; quite steep tracks the enthusiastic often make the 3 kilometre ascent to the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Cabeza of Bodíjar, a venerated newly restored local monument. It is here that on each last Sunday in April, the people of Jete annually set out on a pilgrimage or romería to this site; a sombre occasion for penance and fiesta it nevertheless attracts many visitors from all around. From Bodijar, more experienced hikers can prolong the route until the top of the Picacho mountain, and from where some of the most spectacular panoramic views of the coast, the Almijara Mountain range, and on a clear day, even as far as the Sierra Nevada peaks too can be observed. For a gentler path, and an easy introduction to the activity, simply follow the river bed of the river Verde in the direction of the sea and Almuñecar. Two kilometres south of the village you will find the cave shrine known locally as the Virgen del Agua, it was here that an underground stream from an earlier Roman aqueduct suddenly re-opened at the end of XIX century and the local community built a small temple. To this day, the cave is regularly visited by locals carrying gifts to the Madonna whose spirit, as many believe, stays to insure that the valley remains green and fertile.

Remaining in Jete, in a narrow street just 50 metres behind the town hall is the villages successful winery. "Try them, try these grapes," are the first words that Horacio Calvente exclaims when you arrive at his cellar. Impossible to miss with its brim-filled baskets crammed with fresh moscatel of Alexandria grapes, kept at the bodega entrance. Delicious, and a welcome tapa. Snr Calvente, a modest man, only began experimenting in wine production 10 years ago, yet his vineyards of Calvente Wineries that are located at an altitude of almost one thousand meters, in the mountains of Cázulas north of Otivar, continue annually to produce high scoring wines that are often listed in the best wine guides in Spain. Among the varieties cultivated by Snr Calvente are the Moscatel of Alexandria, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Tempranillo; but the real star is its white wine, of characteristic and quite complex flavour, blended with grapes of La Guindalera on the slopes of Sierra Nevada, it is the estates biggest seller.

On from Jete village, and passing the new road access to Itrabo (GR-5400), at more than 280 metres above sea level is the village of Otivar. The name can be traced to the Basque country, and is similar to the name of the Guipuzcoan valley of Beotívar. Otivar is a popular place for lovers of rural tourism, there has over the last few years been a significant increase in the population, thanks in part to the dynamic of foreign property owners and artists choosing this typically white washed Andalucian village as the place to re-locate and enjoy tranquillity, light and stunning scenery. Encouraged by the newly elected local mayor, a dynamic programme of social events and courses have been offered to promote greater community integration between the various nationalities. The mayor recognises that more than 15 per cent of the current population are northern and eastern Europeans, and as such offers various language and cultural events to help accommodate them. Otívar, lies at the foot of the Cázulas and La Almijara mountain ranges, and because of the light, the views and the pure air it has become both a tourist spot and an idyll for many escaping the rat race and discover a different way of living. From the Rio Verde viewpoint (Balcón), located near the town hall, this lush valley can be admired. Nearby too is the monument to the Tio Caridad, Juan Fernandez Cañas, an important local character who was both a hero of the Spanish Civil war and also became mayor of Otívar. For nature lovers the ideal place to cool off is the waterfall and lake known locally as the Junta de los Rios (see here for directions). This privileged natural spot is ideal for trekking or simply bathing in the natural streams that unite in the gorge. Approximately 6 kilometres from the village, down a short gated track access it is best to take a picnic and enjoy a full day with the family in the peaceful retreat. Otivar is also home to other activities, like gorge walking or hang-gliding, horse riding and much more. For the les active; a visit to the Church of San Jose, built in the XVI century, in Mudejar style, displays strange relics of armour and is located in Constitution square. Or one can take the family up to the high village quarter and spend a lazy day around the municipal open-air swimming pool.

For food lovers, Otivar is well served with traditional restaurants and bars serving very good local foods like, pimentón of pumpkin, fig bread, gachas (a peasant stew of sausage and red peppers), migas (fried bread crumbs), pestiños (aniseed bread twists) or egg rolls. Fennel stew or choto al ajillo (goat fried with garlic) are typical plates during the winter, and a stop at any of the restaurants will offer a taste of the excellent local black pudding or other dishes like carbonero rice or chicharrones (fried pork rind – scratching), sausage or barbecued meat. A few years ago, when I first arrived in Spain, Otivar was simply known as the end of the chicken run… (in the days before the  Wallace and Grommit movie.) It was here on Sundays, as they continue to do to this day - that parties of foreigners and locals alike would drive from all around, having booked their table in advance, to sit al fresco on the terrace overlooking the valley and enjoy fresh roasted local chicken filled with apple and served with salad and sliced, fried potatoes… mmhhh!

Finally, a further 10 kilometres up the valley a side road now winds up and in to Lenteji - a village that in the 1970’s could only be reached by mule. Here it is said that the village people (mingos) claim that the Magay, or maquis (the resistance fighters of the Spanish Civil war) took refuge here before marching to Granada. The Lentegi women too were once celebrated as the finest needle workers in all Spain – as evident by their achievements producing the fine embroidered jackets of the bull fighters in eighteenth century. Along the journey to Lentegi village, where once subtropical plants dominated the journey up the valley to Otivar, at this point the fauna and flora is replaced by pines, oaks, carob trees, junipers and aromatic bushes, like thyme and rosemary, producing a strange and wild perfume to the air. Aside from admiring the impressive landscape, formed by the mixture of steep mountains, the green of the fertile valley and the dramatic view down to the sea; it is not a drive for the feint hearted as the road, in parts, literally hugs the hillside as it winds up the mountain and in to the village. Nevertheless the journey is worthwhile and there are sites that visitors you should not miss. The Mudejar church of the XVI century, recently renovated, the pretty square with its fountain and stunning viewpoint to the western mountains, the many tranquil corners in the village that can be enjoyed while wandering about, not to mention the newly built balcony walk at the top of the village.

Lenteji offers many outdoor pursuits too. Like the other villages of the Tropical valley that offer a municipal pool, Lenteji’s also provides amazing views, and is a cool respite from the heat of the sun in July to September. Two kilometres before reaching Lentejí is the recreation area of El Sequero, with wide beautiful and fragrant pine groves and an established picnic area – it remains one of the areas great, and hidden, escapes. The village is an ideal place to enjoy hiking and walking. Here there are two routes well known by the villagers: the first that goes east out of the village and up until Entresierras, where the landscape of the Guajar valley opens out with Sierra Nevada in the distance. The second route, leaves northwest and follows a path leading first to Guardajamas, where there are a series of deserted cortijos and where it is possible to refresh yourself in the crystal clear water of the spring before continuing on to Aguasblanquillas, where here you find another hamlet of deserted cortijos. Take a camera to record the unbelievable views...