East of Motril, following the coast road (N-340) that is a particularly popular tourist route during the summer months we approach the coastal villages of Torrenueva, Calahonda and Castell de Ferro. Between these seaside communities the surrounding scenery offers some of the steepest and most dramatic coastal landscapes of the Granada province. Here too lie many stone remains silhouetted against steep cliffs; illustrating how successive settlers over the centuries established watchtowers or similar fortresses to guard against invasion and piracy.

Leaving Motril our first point to stop is Torrenueva – it is here that from June to September the sandy beaches are filled to capacity as Granadinos and tourists alike gather to make the most of the sun and the sea. Along the promenade there are many typical fish restaurants and tapas bars to enjoy local delicacies such as the popular breakfast dish of Espichás (sun dried anchovies, salted and fried, served with fried garlic and eggs); and also the famous and wonderfully sweet prawns caught nearby – known by the locals as Quisquillas.

Following towards Castell de Ferro, we begin to climb up the hillside and the cliffs towards the lighthouse at the far eastern edge of Torrenueva. The light itself is perched a few hundred metres from the naturist beach of La Joya – a quiet, natural cove that is reached by more than 240 steps! There are no facilities available at this beach so remember to take a picnic and plenty of water – not forgetting that you need to be prepared to climb the 240 steps again to reach your vehicle.

Passing the lighthouse on your right the road now winds down towards the coastal plain that is Carchuna and provides magnificent views to Calahonda. Here the plain is marked by the importance of agriculture and much of the land is filled with greenhouses providing tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers that are exported to markets all year round. The small hamlets of La Chucha and La Perla de Andalucía, each side of the plain, both lie close to the coast and not only do they provide homes for the farm workers but also these communities still to this day sustain a local fishing business. A trade which provides the bars and restaurants of the nearby seaside resort of Calahonda with much to satisfy the appetites of passing visitors and holidaymakers.

Calahonda is a small seaside village that is famed for its magnificent beach of thick and clean sand and its deep and transparent water. Until the growth of Motril and its port in the 19th century, the port of Calahonda with its deep shelf was where berthed the many commercial ships that sailed until the Americas and other continents. In 1841, local records show that the port of Calahonda was classified as a custom area, second class, and this allowed it to handle the commercial traffic of goods in and out of southern Spain.

It is recorded by the local watch that on the 13th of October, 1805, an English boat flying the Spanish flag was seen sailing along the Granada coast. It passed the Carchuna castle and the Farillo tower (Atalaya del Llano de Carchuna) until it reached the port of Calahonda. Here it raised its true flag and attacked with cannons the numerous vessels that lay berthed in its waters. A week later, further west along the coast, at a headland off the Cadiz coastline, the French fleet led by Admiral Pierre Villeneuve joined the Spanish fleet commanded by Admiral Federico Gravina and at Cape Trafalgar, they met the English ships commanded by Admiral Lord Nelson. The rest, as they say is history.

Today, apart from the sun and sea, one of Calahonda’s most popular sites is the Farillo. This tower, with its romantic tilt, is often used as a source of inspiration and focus for the many artists who can not resist painting the dusk against this dramatic tower on their canvas. The tower was constructed in the mid 16th century originally to house a light and watchman but by the 1780s it was adapted as a small garrison to defend the port below that was growing in importance. However, it is believed that by 1855 the tower began its peculiar and characteristic leaning process.

As the road turns sharp inland, leaving Calahonda, then once more we begin to climb. At this point, and for several kilometres, the road follows the curve of the land, dipping and diving through majestic cliffs and the rocky terrain that makes this a coastline that is short but rich in spectacular ravines and  pretty coves. To make the most of your journey through this part of the Granada coastline then try to stop at the viewing points of the tower of Condenada, the Arrayán or the Raya; and also take time to enjoy the spectacular cove of La Rijana. The cove once harboured more than 60 small boats in the 16th century, and is today well worth a visit, not only for its beauty but because it is a calm and remote place throughout the year. It is necessary to keep an eye out for the small signs, so you do not leave it behind.

Castell del Ferro lies at the end of our journey. The 13th century fortress remains that are located near the town centre were once home to a hundred fold force charged with coastal defenses. The settlement that grew around this strategic location did not really take hold until the 16th century when inhabitants of the nearby inland villages, including Gualchos, amongst others, felt it safe to locate themselves here. By the 19th century the town grew in part due to its natural harbor, but also because it was from here that ferro minerals (iron based alloy materials) mined in the mountains of Lújar some 10 kilometres inland, were exported. Hence the name, Castell de Ferro, which was also known as Castil de Ferro during the reign of the Catholic kings. It is suggested that the repopulation by Catalans in the area encouraged the adapted name change to Castell. The town has seen changes over the centuries, from a military to an industrial port, from a few fishing boats to the present agro-culture farming that fills the surrounding slopes with greenhouses and huge water tanks. Apart from the beach and the fortress defenses, visitors should also stop at the church built in the 19th century thanks to the persistence of a local nun, Doña Teresa. Finally, an historical curiosity – in the choir of the cathedral of Toledo, chair 42 offers a panel that illustrates the surrender of the castle of Castell de Ferro to the Catholic Kings.